Hotels

GO

I think the two most important things to consider for hotels is where it is and what it offers. Where is no doubt top shelf. There are some places (like any major city) that have reasonable hotels in very ugly places. I am not an expert on all of Barcelona, but I do know two places that are great summer areas: Diagonal Mar and Poblenou. Poblenou was a fishing village for hundreds of years, so lots of old streets and nice places to eat/drink. Some tourists, but nothing at all like Placa Catalunia. Diagonal is the newest part of Barcelona with high rise hotels, modern shopping and newer streets. Both are right next to the beach. Diagonal is less crowded, Pablonou has a nice green park area next to the beach.

NO GO

Unless your just in the market for a new phone, watch, cell phone or all the above, I would not adventure north of Diagonal. My cell phone was sending signals from a house there for weeks before it made its way to Africa and hasn't been seen or heard from since.

Hotels near the airport are generally business-like, because it’s a very industrialized area.

Things about hotels in Spain

All hotels will ask to photocopy your passport, but NONE will keep it. If they ask to keep it definitely say no.

Rooms in Europe are typically smaller than the US

All have European electrical outlets, you can find converters on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/6PKSCHUKO-Grounded-American-European-Adapter/dp/B0038L54ZO/ref=sr_1_30?crid=TERIARXZ5U8Y&keywords=european+electrical+adapter&qid=1707828992&sprefix=european+electrical+%2Caps%2C424&sr=8-30) DON’T- buy the little flat ones (two connector)- no safety ground, and don’t plug in anything that has a motor (hairdryer). Things that use a DC plug (the little round ones like you might find on a computer or other device are ok IF- you read the adapter and it accepts voltage 110-220 at least. Smoke will result if you plug in a US adapter that is only rated at 110/120 volts. Sometimes the hotels have US style outlets, but the electricity coming out is still European, consider them the same as adapters.

If you get a car, get a hotel with parking (it’s not always there)

Water is safe to drink in Spain, but nobody does it. Get some bottled water for the room at the airport or if a store is nearby the hotel

Beds can be a little strange in some hotels – a double is actually two twins stuck together- you might want to check if your tall or don’t like a twin size bed

Dining

General Franco (the dictator), is at the source of this issue- Spaniards eat a significant meal between 2-4pm- MANY restaurant kitchens absolutely close at 4pm, then open again at 8pm. Why Franco?- he wanted to buddy up to Germany before WW2, so he changed Spain’s time zone to Germany’s- even though, geographically, Spain is farther West. Spain is literally located in the wrong time zone. You can still get sandwiches all day at most cafes, but usually not full meals. Late dinner is from 8pm to 11Pm everyday.

BONUS! NO Tips Required! In heavy tourist areas, tourists tip, Spaniards do not. Completely your choice in tourist spots. There isn’t even a way to tip when you use a CC. If you leave the extra change up to the next Euro, it means “thank you”. In Poblunou or Diagonal, and Placa Espanya it’s best to just say “thank you”.

Time- All of Europe takes their time, a lot of time, to eat. No one else is waiting for your table, yours for the day. It’s slow and easy, but just be ready for maybe slower than you’re comfortable with. The waiter will generally not come around and ask if you want a refill. A simple hand wave and you can ask them, but they won’t ask you. (even bars won’t ask if ready for another).

Getting the table- If you get there at 2 or few minutes earlier you have a good chance of eating anywhere you want, by 3pm many places are full. Later than 3:30/4 and they may not seat you all.

Menu of the Day- Very Spanish, Very Good! Most places have a menu of the day including a first plate from several choices, a second plate from several choices, Dessert or coffee and Bread for one great price. As low as 10 euros (11 dollars) or as high as you want. Barcelona around 15 euros ($17) is normal. Smaller mom and pop places are usually great because the serve typical food, but without much translation- explorer types only! Side note- A lot of places name their dishes “Catalan Special”- so complete mystery. If it says “secreto” it’s chef surprise- I have had some very good surprises.

Planes

Direct flights from the US to Madrid and Barcelona are usually cheaper than other cities in Spain. American and their code share airlines have reasonable flights. The code share sites, like Iberia, sometimes have cheaper fares than you can find on search tools like Skyscanner and cheaper than American. So you fly on an American flight for an Iberia price. July prices heat up fast, June generally a little cheaper. Europe goes on vacation in later July and early August, those are the most expensive.

If it's adventure you seek- then the discount flights might work for you. Norse Atlantic recently took over the long haul routes that the dying Norwiegian Air left behind. The same planes (very comfortable 787 Dreamliner) and pretty much same routes (although fewer of them). Norse Atlantic and the other cut rates are great deals, but no, NONE normal comforts. Their terminal connections at JFK and Paris are outdated and nowhere to sit but the floor. The departure and arrival usually involve a bus ride to the plane on the tarmac. The gate agents only open a few hours before departure- and you have to use them. They charge for the air you breath and everything else. The good side- I have flown Paris to JFK for $121. In the end- see NY, Paris then head to Barcelona on the light rail from Paris (3 hours)., but it's truly a camping trip.

Ok, now for the true adventurer- Military Space A travel. If you're authorized (you would know if you were) the DoD operates a rotator flight from Norfolk NAS to Rota weekly. Once in Rota, a bus can run you up to Seville and you can catch a light rail to Barcelona, or fly pretty cheap (RyanAir). Taxi is also a choice, but an expensive one- agree to the price first. Rota is a fun little beach town, Sevilla, well, it's Sevilla (they sell scrambled eggs mixed with frozen fries as tortilla patata).

Trains

If you are going to use the train to get from Madrid to anywhere- buy the ticket online first, https://www.omio.com/trains. There is a pretty easy bus from the Airport to the Train Station (Atocha)- it’s about 50 minutes on a good day. Atocha Station is a prewar nightmare if you have to buy or change a ticket there.

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If they want you pay for baggage when you buy the ticket- do it. They sometimes check at boarding and there will be no way for you to get it straightened out before the train leaves. I'm pretty sure only the newer companies charge for bags.

Several good choices for light rail, I would stay off regional or express routes unless you just need to see every phone booth from Madrid to Barcelona for a full day of fun. All the light rail trains are comfortable- and fast, all the others are usually neither. It’s about a 3 hour ride from Madrid to Barcelona- with a short stop in Zaragoza (my town!)

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Fun note- the rail system in Spain was created under Franco (the dictator?). He purposefully made the rail lines on narrow tracks, so no trains could leave or enter the country. Some of those narrow gauge tracks still operate in the mountains between Spain and France. It's impossible to change the tracks because wider tracks won't fit in the mountain tunnels.

RENFE- my first choice. They are a privatized from the government-owned, same name rail service 30 years ago, A little more expensive (10-15%) but more established and efficient than the newer companies. Their website can be a PITA, but if you can make it work if you try. Sometimes the pull-down menus don't work using English translations - like dates, routes... so you have to read it in English, then go back to Spanish to buy the ticket.

Ouigo, a French company, is also comfortable, fast and a little cheaper. The downside is they are not as established and can sometimes present you with weird problems just out of the blue- I was told once I could not take a box, even smaller than a suitcase or shopping bag on the train. Nice inside, very comfortable.

RENFE- my first choice. They are a privatized from government-owned, same name rail service 30 years ago, A little more expensive (10-15%) but more established and efficient than the newer companies. Their website can be a PITA, but if you can make it work if you try. Sometimes (not always?) the drop-down menus don't work using English translations - like dates, routes... (a lot of Spanish sites are like that) so sometimes you have to read it in English, then go back to Spanish to buy the ticket.

You can buy tickets here for any company: https://www.omio.com/trains. They have a great app, with, at times the translation issue, but other than that very useful (better than the RENFE site).

Driving

Driving can be very exciting; extremely exciting in Barcelona. If you’ve driven in major European cities you have a fighting chance of survival. It is dog-eat-dog vehicular combat in the streets of Barcelona. Sometimes a coat of paint away from a city bus. My wife loves every minute of it!

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First, US Driver's license is not legal in Spain. Even though rental agencies will accept it and give you car, the police will not: ($250 Euro fine only payable in line at a government office which you need to make a n appointment online to pay). Take a look for yourself how to make the appointment: https://sede.dgt.gob.es/es/otros-tramites/cita-previa-jefaturas/.

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The legal way to drive in Spain is to get an International License- takes 10 minutes, $25. I have tested this with police on several occasions- it worked fine. Here is where to get the license:https://www.aaa.com/vacation/idpf.html

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A bigger downside to cars, after traffic and license, is parking. You cannot park anywhere that is not marked in Blue, White or Red or Green. Solid yellow line parking is 200 euros and, if they tow it (rare), back to the appointment desk. Parking in parking garages is best, spaces are really tight, I mean you may have to crawl out the window, tight (not really exaggerating here at all). If you get a car, get a hotel with parking.

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On the street you are usually limited to 2 hours parking, then you have to renew at the machine where your car is, Red zones are most restrictive and Expensive, followed by Blue Zones, Green zones are residential areas you can park about 3.75 euros an hour. I'm not sure of RED or Blue zone costs. White zones are free, and as you might guess, extremely rare.

The parking system:

1-you park, go to the meter (digital) change language to English, pay and begin your two hours, you can come back in two hours and do it again (about 8 dollars per two hours).

2- you can download the SMOU app (https://www.smou.cat/en), and use it for everything. It won’t let you repay for parking (stay more than 2 hours) if you are too far away from the spot. But it’s so much easier than the meter, and you can pay for city bikes and garage parking.

3- If you are overparked in a legal spot, less then 2 hours over, you can cancel the fine if you pay the additional parking cost before the second 2 hour limit and no fine! The fine is 40 euros either way for overparking, math says pay the first two hours and let it ride. If you get back in time cancel - no foul. If you don’t it’s 40 euros, but that in the end is cheaper than paying for all that parking everyday. I’ve been parking like this for years, I got one ticket, 40 euros, but would have spent so much more paying for all the parking. And- if you pay the 40 euros within 60 days, it’s half price!

Barcelona has traffic cams at nearly every light in the city. The system is operated by a private company, that gets a cut of the fine. So they need as many pics as possible. Don’t run red lights- it doesn’t work, you will be stopping at the next light anyway (they are timed) just 200 euros poorer.

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Speeding radars are plentiful on highways, and when they post 60 KPH, 61 might get you a ticket. I earned mine at 9kph (6mph) over. Radar detectors are illegal, but very effective at pinpointing radars. I have used mine for years with no problem. Spain uses a camara system in addition to Radar that is undetectable. It takes your picture at one one point then again at a later point (1/2 mile), then does the math to see if your average speed is above the limit, I learned this one at 11 kmh (7mph) over the limit.

For what it's worth- The car is great for day trips to other cities or the country, but inside the city it's an expensive PITA that is much more difficult, dangerous and expensive than busses, subways and taxis or even bikes.

Just Being in Spain

You can walk everywhere in Spain- Ask Jenn- We did an unintentional half day death march across Barcelona, it is possible. To take with you- everyone out and about needs their national ID card (which you don’t have) or passport with them at all times. That said many Spaniards carry a photo of their ID on their phone and it works fine. Unless they grab you for knocking off a liquor store, you can carry a photo of your passport ID page on your phone and keep the passport safe in the hotel.

Spain is bump and grind, rubbing is racing. On the bus, club, bar, store and sidewalk. You may get introduced to a lot of strangers without saying a word! They mean no disrespect by it, it’s just accepted. Yesterday (really yesterday) in a near empty café, sitting at the bar talking with my wife, two old guys stand right next to us and sure enough- butt, back and elbow invitations are exchanged. After living here for years I still have to remind myself (and sometimes she helps)- that they mean no harm.

Sunday is quiet day, many stores are closed, streets are pretty quiet. If you like outdoor café sitting on a nice day, so does everyone else. If you get out before 11AM you have a good chance on a sunny Sunday, after 12 or so it’s dog eat dog for tables. It’s not unusual to drink before lunch, so the 5 O’clock somewhere rule applies. They won’t think you’re a lush for ordering a beer before 12.

Cocktails- Jenn is my witness- you can buy them at high end bars and some “chiringuitos” (small bars on the beach), but not usually in cafes or smaller places. If you ask- they will try, it’s very unlikely to be what you thought it would be.

Beer- most places have bottled and draft beer. Some places it’s 2 euros for a “canya” -pint, even less for a “copa” – 10oz. And then there is Jarra (harra) about 22 oz- maybe 3 euros. It’s stronger (taste and alcohol) beer- no comparison to standard draft American Beers. Each city has their brand- Barcelona is Estrella Damm (acceptable), but many places have Estrella Galicia (much better) and if you find Ambar on tap, stay for few- it’s better than either. If you have never choked on a beer and want to try it out- order a CruzCampo – it will be one of those things that makes you stronger (if it doesn’t kill you).

Beaches

Year, it’s true, Spain has nude beaches. Not completely- just tops, and I’ve never seen men hang it out on the regular beaches. Just a caution- it’s not seen as anything unusual at all- old, young, big and small so it’s not like a fashion show at all.

Best beaches? I like the northern beaches because there are more locals and less people overall. Starting at the North end of Diagonal (Llevant and Nova Mar Bella Beach), for me it gets increasingly crowded as you move south. A word of caution- don’t confuse Nova Mar Bella (great beach for families) with Mar Bella Beach. Nova Mar Bella is a family beach, the Southern end of Mar Bella is a very lively alternative lifestyle beach, which may not be what a family is looking for.

Just some ideas:

The famous Placa Catalunia is a great place for high end shopping, great food, and of course the Ramblas. Some of the best hotels in the city are here or very close. The downside is it’s ground zero for hoards of tourists. It may get a little crowded staying here 24/7.