THINGS TO DO

VOLTERRA

The hidden secret of Tuscany, Volterra is the connoisseur’s city of choice. One of the largest and most important Tuscan cities from 1,500 BC until the late Renaissance, Volterra still retains aspects from each period of it’s long and rich history – from the carved funerary urns and city walls of the Etruscans to the open-air Roman Theater, the Medieval city structure, the Renaissance palaces and churches. One of the charms of Volterra is that, perhaps because of the winding roads that lead to it, it tends to be less touristy than other Tuscan towns.

50-minute drive from Stomennano

SAN GIMIGNANO

Used as the setting for E. M. Forester’s Where Angels Fear to Tread and the Merchant-Ivory film Tea with Mussolini, San Gimignano (pronounced “sahn jim-in-yano”!) captivates every visitor with its sky-piercing towers and quaint city streets. An ancient medieval trading-town, San Gimignano is a Tuscan architectural gem, surrounded by softly-contoured hills and vineyards that produce the highly-acclaimed white wine Vernaccia di San Gimignano.

35-minute drive from Stomennano

FIRENZE

Florence. The birthplace of the Renaissance and the Italian language, the ancient capital of Tuscany, and the center of Italian cultural and artistic production, Florence in its entirety can be a bit overwhelming. Stendhal became light-headed and weak when he came to Florence, overcome by its bewildering beauty. The sites to see and experiences to be had in Florence are endless, and no list could ever do justice to this town, considered the Cultural Capitol of Europe. From the museums and churches that house astonishing collections of the world’s finest art, to the bottegas where Florentine artisans still work their trades much as they did 500 years ago, the surprising delights of the Florentine trattorias, markets and boutiques, the frenzied enthusiasm of Florentines while doing their daily shopping, Florence is a city which engages all five senses.

1 hour drive from Stomennano

SIENA

Best known as the home of the Palio, Siena introduces you to Tuscany as it once was. One of the most interesting aspects of Siena is its rich architectural heritage – a stroll through the winding city streets leaves you with a strong sense of its medieval atmosphere like no other Tuscan city.

The city is brimming with monuments that attest to Siena’s past economic and political grandeur: the imposing, art-filled churches, the magnificent world-renown cathedral (with one of the most extraordinary marble facades) and the fascinating town square Piazza del Campo (once the center of the town’s political power and where the Palio horse race is held twice-yearly).

25-minute drive from Stomennano

PIENZA

Pienza owes its position as one of the most charming art towns of Tuscany to one man, Enea Silvio Piccolomini, who became Pope Pius II in 1458. With the help of the architect Bernardo Rossellino he transformed the insignificant village of Corsignano, where he was born, into a model Renaissance town laid out on clear planning principles. Just a few years after the works began, Pienza was officially recognized as a town and a wonder for all to see. Pienza, which retains most of its original architecture, is also known for its artisanal production of pecorino cheese.

1 hour 15-minute drive from Stomennano

MONTEPULCIANO

Montepulciano is a charming town in the province of Siena, which has Etruscan origins and was already known in ancient times as Castello Politiano; the first document where “Mons Politianus” is specifically mentioned, dates back to 715. From the center of town the surrounding landscape can be admired, and the marvellously variegated view includes the Chiana Valley, Perugia and Assisi, Mount Amiata and even, at the foot of the Appenines, the long trail of Lake Trasimeno. The inhabitants of this town (the Poliziani) had always been enemies of Siena and so, in 1202, they took an oath of allegiance to Florence, but were definitively annexed to the town only in 1511. Montepulciano is a suggestive small town with some of Tuscany’s finest Renaissance architecture.

1 hour 15-minute drive from Stomennano

PISA

Pisa is the Tuscan city with the most clichéd image, and at the same time one of Tuscany’s best kept secrets. The famous tower is an apt representation of the scientific geniality of Pisa, yet Pisa is much more than just a tower: from Medieval buildings to the finest examples of Romanesque sculpture, Renaissance palaces and Baroque churches, Pisa is full of art and architecture that pay witness to the magnificent past of the Maritime Republic of Pisa.

1 hour 40- minute drive from Stomennano

CORTONA

Cortona is a wonderful medieval village standing on a buttress overlooking the Val di Chiana. While best known in recent years as the backdrop for Frances Mayes’ “Under the Tuscan Sun”, Cortona, which is on the eastern tip of Tuscany and on the Umbrian border, is a charming medieval town which contrasts with the rest of Tuscany. Cortona was an early Etruscan town, as seen by city walls and graves that remain to this day. At the end of the 4th century B.C. Cortona formed an alliance with Rome, in order to gain its citizenship. In 450 Cortona was conquered by the Goths, but it began its development in the 12th century, when it became a commune, known for its arts and crafts. It became first a Ghibelline diocese in 1325, then a Signoria with the Ranieri family and remained the same until 1409. In 1411 it was sold to Florence and began a period of decline. The Romantics of the Grand Tour fell in love with Cortona, considering it a more rustic version of San Gimignano.

1 hour 15-minute drive from Stomennano

A Little Background Information on Chianti

The historical roots of this strip of land that lies uncontaminated in the heart of Tuscany can be traced back to the Bronze Age, testified to by fossils, fragments of Etruscan black-clay ceramics (bucchero), weapons, and burial sites from Etruscan and Roman periods. It was the Romans who gave the name to the area, which derives from the Latin verb clango, meaning “resound”, perhaps indicating the clamour of the baronial hunts that echoed in the woods. Except for the great Roman transit routes (the Via Cassia and the Via Francigena) that passed nearby, Chianti remained relatively isolated throughout the Middle Ages, but nonetheless became an area coveted by the three dominating Tuscan city-states of Arezzo, Florence and Siena. In fact Monteriggioni was built as a fortress town in the early 13th century by the Republic of Siena to protect the area from Florentine invasion.

Florence and Siena had disputed the exact confines of their territory within Chianti for centuries, and the legend goes that in the beginning of the 12th century a competition was established to definitively determine the matter: a knight representing each city was to leave from it’s city gates when the cock crows and wherever these two knights met would be the point in which the border would be determined. This was how it was established by parliamentary agreement between the governors of the two cities. It is narrated however that the Florentines had a black cockerel (now the symbol of Chianti) which was stopped from eating for days and days, and hungry as it was, it crowed well before dawn; thus the Florentine knight started out first and gained a great advantage over his rival, reaching Castellina in Chianti.

Notwithstanding the division between the two city states, Chianti was still considered a single territory, but was subdivided into three “thirds” corresponding roughly to the current-day areas of Radda, Castellina and Gaiole. The Chianti that we see is characterized by a medieval, renaissance and baroque development, but most of all by the unique Tuscan landscape marked by oratories along country lanes, sprawling vineyards and age-old olive groves that dot its undulating hills.

GROUP TOURS

The following towns offer group tours for which you do not need to book in advance:

Volterra

Daily one-hour tour, held at 12:30 pm Monday, Wednesday & Friday, and at 6 pm all other days of the week

€10 per person, minimum 3 persons

For details and more info see www.volterrawalkingtour.com

Siena

Every day at 11 am – 2 hrs - €30 per person

For details see https://www.guidesiena.it/en/buy/classic-siena-tour

San Gimignano

Sundays at 11 am €15

For details see https://www.guidesiena.it/en/buy/san-gimignano-tour

RESTAURANTS IN SIENA

recommended by Annie Adair(wedding planner)

Osteria il Carroccio (Casato). Owned by two young men from the Onda (Wave) Contrada, here you’ll find typical Sienese dishes in a small and cosy atmosphere. They have the BEST lampredotto in town (please, just try it - tell them Anna l’americana told you to!). There are also tables outside, a stone’s throw away from the Piazza del Campo. “Carroccio” means “war cart”, and in Siena that refers both to the medieval military past and the cart that brings the Palio banner into the Campo on the day of the race.

La Grotta di Santa Caterina da Bagoga (Via della Galluzza). “Bagoga” means “apricot” in the dialect of Montalcino, town in the province of Siena famous for its Brunello wine. It is also home to the COOK, Piero Fagnani, whose nickname is Bagoga (don’t call him a chef; chefs are French, and he’s a proud Italian!). This place is always buzzing with the locals, enjoying the delights coming from the kitchen paired with the Fagnani family wines. So yes, it does get noisy in there, but there are (small) tables outside (with benches, not chairs, but they’re quite comfortable). Insider tip: not always listed on the menu, the “pane di Santa Caterina” served with gelato alla crema is a dessert you won’t soon forget! If you want to try making some of the recipes yourself, ask Francesco for his book QB (translated by yours truly!).

La Sosta di Violante (Via Pantaneto): Their menu changes according to the season (as does everyone’s!), but if they have the ‘frittelle di pecorino’ they are delicious (fried pecorino cheese balls!), and their filetto (filet of beef) is always of the highest quality. They have two seatings, at 19.30 and at 21.00, but don’t worry, you won’t be rushed out at 21.00 as the later eaters usually arrive late!

La Taverna di San Giuseppe (Via Dupré 132). Truly a classic! Because they are so popular, you must reserve, and they now have 2 seatings at dinner, at 19.00 and 21.00 (many places do this now but they’ll always let you know). Their food and service remain impeccable, and the atmosphere (complete with Etruscan dwelling!) is truly delightful.

Trattoria la Torre (Via di Salicotto, right under the Torre del Mangia!). This lovely trattoria serves delicious and very reasonably priced food, and you can even choose your pasta shape and accompanying sauce. It’s a bit tight inside, but I think the convivial atmosphere makes the food taste even better (but in nice weather you can also sit outside)!

Campo Cedro (Via Pian d’Ovile 54). The only fusion place in town, and it is amazing! The head chef is Japanese and creates the most exquisite dishes that combine traditional Asian and Tuscan flavours. It’s a bit hard to find but well worth the effort (it’s near the upper lot of the Parking Pian d’Ovile). I highly recommend getting the tasting menu so you get the best the day has to offer.

Ristorante il Biondo (Vicolo del Rustichetto). This has become the go-to place for the first meal out when my parents come to visit. The lovely owner and waitstaff make this a wonderful dining experience, and the lighting of their outdoor seating area is so inviting (ask to be seated on the veranda if you can).

Osteria da Cice (Via San Pietro). Massi and Sabrina run this charming restaurant, and the steak and gnocchetti are always delicious. Also try their pecorino flan if it’s available!

Ristorante il Duomo (Via dei Fusari). Just a few steps away from the Duomo, they serve classic Tuscan dishes and make great pizza. Some of the wine is even made by the owners (if you like rosé, “La Matta” (“the crazy one” was inspired by their daughter!).

Casa Tua (Piazza del Mercato). This is a new addition to the Sienese dining scene and Emiliano has done an incredible job renovating the space so that there are two floors of seating plus an outside area too. If you enjoy raw fish, this is the place to go! Don’t worry, they have cooked fish and a full meat-based menu as well, and an impressive wine list.

Osteria Grattacielo (Via dei Pontani). For more Sienese humour, “grattacielo” means “skyscraper” (you’ll see why that’s funny when you go). Here is another great vinaio right off the main street in the city center, but space is limited! Pop your head in, tell them how many of you will be dining and if you prefer inside or outside, and then they’ll seat you when there’s space (don’t worry, they know the order you came in if there’s a queue). Now take turns going inside and ordering a plate of meats, cheeses, freshly made dishes (chickpea salad, cannellini beans, frittatas, etc), then ask for “acqua naturale” or “acqua frizzante” and a caraffe of white or red (un quarto, mezzo litro, o un litro), and pay at the end! They also have a pasta or soup of the day, but I prefer what they have at the counter. NB: you’ll have to get your caffè at the bar next door, and this might be the home of Siena’s smallest bathroom…

Papei (Piazza del Mercato). Papei never disappoints. Loads of tables both inside and out in the Piazza del Mercato (behind the Campo), this is also a great place to come if there are a lot of you because if you ask them to bring you a few dishes “family style”, you can try a few types of antipasti, pasta dishes, and sides.

Places in the main square- Piazza del Campo: il Bandierino and al Mangia serve lovely food and are great spots for people-watching. Il Bandierino also makes pizza and is open all day.

Ristorante all’Orto de’ Pecci (in the garden called Orto de’ Pecci, behind the Piazza del Mercato). The food here is always delicious, and what’s more, you’re in a garden setting and can visit the donkey, peacock, sheep, and ducks who live there! This is a fabulous summer option, as it’s a good 10º cooler here than up in the city proper (just bring bug spray). If you’re a large group, consider ordering 2 or 3 mixed antipasti for the table and a few pasta dishes to share (family style).

Vinaio da Bobbe e Davide (Via Camollia 167): This is pure Sienese just good food and vino served with that dry Tuscan sense of humour - what more could you want?! Get the pici of the day after a selection of meats and cheeses to start, and they occasionally serve vegetables too!

Ristorante il Sasso (Via dei Rossi 2). Marco’s speciality is fish (I highly recommend the ‘giro di antipasti con crudo e cotto’ which is raw and cooked fish (delicious!). Watch out for the ferocious guard dog, Joey (he’s a toy poodle, but he protects his master fiercely!). Meat also served, including a lovely Fiorentina.

La Grotta di San Francesco (Via Camollia 25). They’re also known for their seafood, so be sure to check out the daily specials (but you can never go wrong with the spaghetti alle vongole!).

Sandwiches/pizza: If you’d prefer something more simple, you can get a panino at any bar and eat it there or on the go. Here are some of my go-to’s:

*Unfortunately, you are not allowed to eat in the Piazza del Campo (you can stand and eat, but not sit & eat). There are benches in the Piazza del Mercato behind the Palazzo Pubblico.

il Cencio (Piazza del Campo). Large, yummy sandwiches.

Pizzeria la Trofea (corner of il Campo and Chiasso Largo/Via Rinaldini). Pizza by the slice.

il Bocconcino (next door to la Trofea on Chiasso Largo/Via Rinaldini). Excellent sandwiches.

Caffè 19zero3: Piazza del Mercato. Great spot for a panino or pasta dish, delicious cocktails/mocktails too. If pressed for time, tell them this ASAP.

Bar la Piazzetta (Via Montanini 52). This is my local and favourite bar. They do great focaccia sandwiches and other panini, but for €8 you can get a “tris” where you choose 3 things (salad, pasta, meat, vegetables). They usually start bringing out a variety of dishes about 12:15 and by 12:45 you have the full selection; by 13:45 it’s mostly gone! In nice weather you can eat outside in the piazzetta in front, otherwise there is seating inside and at the back. (NB: to use the bathroom you have to ask - they need to press a button to unlock the door for you!).