Halloween!
Ireland is the birthplace of Halloween, and it's no coincidence that our wedding is taking place so close to our favorite holiday. Halloween is modeled after the Celtic feast day of Samhain (pronounced: sow-in). It is said to begin at Oweynagat (Irish: Uaimh na gCat), an ancient cave in County Roscommon that is believed to be the entrance to the Otherworld and Tír na nÓg, the "land of the young." On Samhain night, the portal in the cave opens, allowing all manner of spirits and supernatural entities to come roaring through into this world. Oweynagat is sacred to The Morrigan, a deity associated with the divine feminine, sovereignty, war, death, and crows. It's also where Preston proposed to Maeve.
There are a number of events leading up to the 31st. As we come across them, we'll add to this list.
Galway:
https://www.galwaytourism.ie/event/galway-aboo-halloween-festival/
Oweynagat:
https://www.rathcroghan.ie/tours-events/halloween-at-rathcroghan/
Puca Festival:
Derry:
This is Europe's largest Halloween festival. However, if you've rented a car, be aware that this is in Northern Ireland, and many rental companies charge extra fees for crossing the border.
A Few of Our Favorite Things
Dingle.
Oh, Dingle. This is one of the most beautiful places in the world, and we aren't the only ones who think so. Make sure to stop at Inch Strand (Inch Beach) on your way onto the peninsula. It is hands down our favorite stretch of sand on earth. From there, prepare for an absolutely breathtaking drive over rolling hills that part to reveal expansive coastal vistas. In Dingle Town, you'll find streets lined with brightly painted buildings occupied by local artisans of all stripes. You might also find some of the best fish and chips on the island.
If you're feeling adventurous, take the Conor Pass, a high mountain road widely regarded as the most beautiful drive in Ireland.
Galway
A cobblestoned, artistic, literary city if there ever was one, Galway is somehow even prettier in the rain. Packed with book stores, artist shops, and some truly incredible restaurants, go for the culture and ambiance (if not the Halloween parade). Stay to watch the river rip through the city. Leave with too many Aran sweaters and a Claddagh ring.
Achill Island
Yes, it's an island. But it's one you can drive to, and it's right outside of Westport. We have to admit, we haven't been here. At least not that Maeve remembers. But, it boasts more awards and accolades than we can list. By all accounts, the beaches are magical, and the seaside cliffs are the highest in Ireland (though because they are not technically on the main island, the Sliabh Liag are generally recognized as being the tallest).
Sliabh Liag (Sleeve League)
The highest seaside cliffs on the main island of Ireland, this place is dizzyingly gorgeous. Dress warmly. The winds are just as fond of this rocky wonder as we are.
Carrick on Shannon
Some places just... feel like home. This is one of ours. A quaint—yet relatively contemporary—river town on the border between counties Leitrim and Roscommon, Carrick on Shannon is a destination for Irish folks on holiday, but doesn't feature prominently on most international travel itineraries. With a vibrant arts scene anchored by The Dock community arts center, the town avenues are rung with small cafes, old pubs, and shockingly good restaurants. Stop into The Oarsman for a pint and the best chicken wings you'll ever have (we were surprised, too). Hit up The Woollen Market for outlet prices on AranCrafts knitwear, but also to talk with resident poet, Kieran Cullen. Ask him to read one for you.
At night, Carrick on Shannon, transformed by staggering bands of stag & hen parties, is an entirely different place. There is music in the pubs and the whole scene is awash with whiskey.
Outside of town, in a location designed to attract the bare minimum of tourists and stag & hen parties, you'll find Anderson's. An authentic thatch pub, this place hosts live music sessions twice a week, but there's no telling if or when the local musicians will actually show up.
Anderson's is owned by Gene (Anderson). If you tell someone in town that you're going to his pub, they'll become visibly alarmed and ask how you found out about the place. What they're really asking is if you know about Gene. Gene is absolutely nuts. Get on his good side, and you'll hear his life's story. And it's a good one. Get on his bad side, and he will let you know.
Dublin
Dublin is not one of our favorite things. But there's a good chance a number of y'all will end up there at some point. Make the most of it by skipping Temple Bar and going straight to The Cobblestone. It's a perpetually packed pub, but there's a good reason for that; it has some of the best trad music sessions you'll find. Anywhere. People come from all over the city-and indeed the island-just to play there. A few years back it became an icon of the fight to preserve Irish culture amid efforts to develop the area into something more profitable for investors. It still stands today. Go while it does.