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Sarah & Kyle

September 2, 2023 • Sicily,

Sarah & Kyle

September 2, 2023 • Sicily,

Modica

Picture of Modica

Modica is a baroque town in southeast Sicily that is most definitely worth a visit! It is divided between two parts: Modica Alta and Modica Bassa. The latter is the lower part where the main thoroughfare (Corso Umberto) was once two converging rivers that often flooded, forcing settlers to seek shelter at a higher altitude, creating the former. This made for many a steep staircase connecting the Bassa from the Alta. While climbing said stairs all the way up is not for the faint of heart or muscle, it provides stunning views. (The same views can also be reached via many windy road.)


But let’s talk food. This is what blew us away.


Eat chocolate. Modica is where Sicilian chocolate is made and, if you haven’t had Sicilian chocolate, you’re in for a (literal) treat. Modican chocolate is made in the same technique as Aztec chocolate (grinding chocolate), probably because of the Spaniards who conquered the town many moons ago. This creates a quite unrefined grainy quality to the chocolate. Not to everyone’s liking, but definitely worth a try. Book a tour at Bonajuta (the oldest chocolate factory in Modica) to learn about this chocolate-making process, as well as taste a bunch a delish treats.


Try ‘mpanatigghi. Chocolate meat pie. Yes you read that right.


Go to Caffè Adamo. Truly one of the most remarkable places we've ever been. We had a coffee drink with ricotta. It was the best thing I've every tasted. The gelato here is otherworldly good.


Eat at Osteria dei Sapori Perduti for authentic Modican food with a menu written in Modican. Not Sicilian. Not Italian. Modican. Please ask your waiter what to order and listen to them. Ours recommended Modican comfort food: a simple broth soup with tiny pasta and tiny meatballs. Kinda like a more simple version of wedding soup. This is something I would normally never order. It was one of the best dishes I've ever had in my life.

San Vito Lo Capo

Picture of San Vito Lo Capo
We first went to San Vito last summer and fell in love with the amazing beaches. Some say San Vito has the most gorgeous beaches in Sicily and I can’t necessarily argue with that. However, of course, gorgeous beaches yield tourists, so there is definitely that beach town passers by vibe going on. But go off the beaten and there are incredible wild beaches not accessible by car that are well worth the trek. Getting to these natural beaches is quite the adventure as the roads leading to them are quite windy and steep, but who doesn’t love a good adventure? We’ll definitely be back for a deep dive exploration.

Ortigia

Picture of Ortigia

Ortigia is a tiny island connected to main(is)land Sicily by a very small bridge. The entirety of Ortigia isn’t bigger than a kilometer, but it’s full of so much magic it deserves days of attention/adventure. This is a town for those more into ex-pat culture and history than gorgeous beaches, as Ortigia lacks in the latter. There are, however, a few platforms built in the summertime for swimming (truly divine), and there is a small rocky beach called Cala Rossa that truly bridges the gap between beauty and the grotesque (gotta say, an arancino and a two dollar beer down here really have done all the things for me). But what you really want to do in Ortigia is wander the tiny, Venezia-like labyrinth streets and get a little lost. Maybe you'll stumble into a clutter-filled vintage store owned by a wordless old man where you'll find the perfect miniature chest to store the bounty of tiny shells you found earlier that day while waxing poetics to yourself at Cala Rossa. Or maybe you'll people-watch all day at a cafe in front of the absolutely impressive main piazza that hosts the duomo that hosts Santa Lucia. The light is just right. Or maybe you'll rent a boat and explore the caves surrounding the island off the island. Maybe you'll eat the best granita of your life (mulberry and pistachio with panna) at Pasticcceria Artale early in the morning before the tourists wake up. You definitely should shop at Sanfason. And you absolutely must spend hours at the Oritgia Market . Make sure you pick up a few take home provisions from Zumariu (tell them I said hi) and eat lunch at Drogheria Drago con Cucina, both places inside the market. It would be a shame if you didn't partake in sunset aperitvo at Fratelli Burgo (the al porto location on the westside of the island, where all the yacht park). And it would be insane if you didn't wander to Vintage Look Store for a fresh pair of amazing vintage designer glasses. And, just saying, if I were you, I'd stay at Henry House. Best hotel breakfast around. As you can gather, I have many opinions about Ortigia. It is amazing. I've spent almost as much time here as Cefalù. Please reach out if you plan to amuse yourself here. It's magic.

Taormina

Picture of Taormina
Don’t go to Taormina. Not because it’s not spectacular. It is. Truly truly spectacular. However it’s bound to be bombarded from White Lotus. I recently spoke to a wedding planner who said weddings are booked three years out in Taormina. That is just bananas! Trust me, you don’t want Disney Sicily. Wait to experience this amazing town after the buzz dies down.

Noto

Picture of Noto

Truth be told, I don't know Noto that well. I've been there multiple times and, naturally, it's lovely, but my main reason for visiting is Caffè Sicilia. So go there. Honestly, Noto is way more of an afternoon trip that a days-long affair. Prove me wrong. (All of the super trendy places are overly hyped, in my opinion.)

Etna

Picture of Etna

Etna is a volcanic region with an expansive of 93km. This rugged, fertile, beautiful area is unlike any other part in Sicily. If you happen to be flying out of Catania you want to consider exploring the majestic Volcano. There are a variety of hikes and trips you can plan. If you don't have the hiking shoes and warm clothes to do the trek, there are easier options to ascend up the volcano in a 4x4 vehicle and a cable car, but that will not bring you near the top.

All the little mountain towns around Etna have unique charm and not full of tourist.

More coming! We just need a little of that elusive thing called "free time" to work on this!