14k vs. 18k Gold: Can You See The Difference?

The options are endless when it comes to choosing an engagement ring: solitaire vs. trio, diamond vs. colored gemstone, 14k vs. 18k gold, yellow, white, rose! Each decision is a matter of personal choice, of course, but it's important to educate yourself on the pros and cons of particular elements. Here, we're going to dive into the gold standard: Which engagement ring metal is best?

Lorraine Brantner, gemologist and sales manager for James Allen, is an expert in the field. We tapped her to clarify the differences between 14k gold vs. 18k gold and weigh in on which is best. "Gold is graded by its purity, specifically the percentage of pure gold compared to the additional alloys," Brantner explains. "24k represents pure gold." So, one karat represents 1/24 pure gold: 24/24 is 100% pure. For anything less than 100% pure gold, the remaining amount is filled with a mixture of various metals known as an alloy, typically including silver, copper, zinc and nickel.

In your search, be wary of terms like gold plated, filled or vermeil; these refer to metal that does not contain solid gold but is rather covered with a very thin layer of gold over solid silver or another metal (they're sometimes high in nickel, which many people are sensitive to). The plating can chip, tarnish or fade. While this type of jewelry is fine for costume pieces, it is not recommended for long-lasting wear, such as in engagement rings. For engagement rings, you'll want to stick to 14k gold, 18k gold or platinum.

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In this article:

• 14k vs. 18k Gold: The Main Differences
• 14k and 18k Gold: Can You See the Difference?
• 14k vs. 18k Gold: Which Is Best for Engagement Rings?

14k vs. 18k Gold: The Main Differences

Though there are some definite technical differences in 14k gold vs. 18k gold, Brantner notes that both work well for engagement rings and everyday wear. You can base your decision on style and budget, but here's the nitty gritty.

Design: Falak Khoja

Purity

"Karats refers to the purity level of gold," Brantner says. "24k is pure gold and too soft to use in jewelry. 18k is 75% pure gold and 14k is 58.5% pure gold." The purity level is typically stamped into the gold somewhere. "In the US, you will commonly see 18k or 14k stampings; however, some designers may use 750 for 18k or 585 for 14k as purity stamps."

Durability

Because of the added alloys that strengthen it, gold is actually more durable the lower the karat; the lower the karat, the higher the percentage of other, stronger metals. 14k gold might scratch slightly less easily than 18k, though you should take proper care of both (more on that below).

Price

Just like diamonds and gemstones, there are lots of variables that affect the price of gold, but the biggest one is the market itself. "The price will fluctuate depending on the metal market," Brantner explains, "but it is safe to expect a slightly higher cost for 18k gold due to the higher percentage of pure gold." At James Allen, for example, a 4mm wedding band in 14k yellow gold is $390; in 18k yellow gold, it's $470.

14k and 18k Gold: Can You See the Difference?

So, can you visually tell the difference between 14k and 18k gold? Technically, yes, but it's faint. "A color-sensitive individual could see a subtle difference, especially if the metals are side by side," Brantner says. "Overall, it is not a huge difference in color." Remember, though, there's more than one hue of gold.

14k vs. 18k Yellow Gold

Yellow gold is ranked high in engagement ring trends: Many couples are opting for yellow gold engagement rings, especially ones with wider cigar bands, to serve as a foil for the shiny diamond. In this hue, the difference in 14k yellow gold vs. 18k yellow gold is most noticeable, but it is still subtle. "Since 18k gold has a higher percentage of pure gold, it has a subtly richer yellow color compared to 14k," Brantner explains. But, remember the caveat: "This also means that 18k gold is slightly softer than 14k."

14k vs. 18k White Gold

It is arguably most difficult to spot the differences in 14k white gold vs. 18k white gold. "Similar to yellow gold, there is a subtle color difference between 18k white gold and 14k white gold in their natural state," Brantner says. "But, since many jewelers [add] rhodium finish to white gold, this color difference would only be noticeable once the rhodium plating has worn off of your jewelry." (Rhodium is a silvery-white metal in the platinum family that's often applied on top of white gold to increase its luster. It's shiny and durable and does not tarnish, but it does occasionally need to be reapplied.)

14k vs. 18k Rose Gold

While rose gold can have definite color variations, the differences are not so much due to the amount of gold in the formula as they are to the amount of copper in the alloy making up the rest of the composition. "Rose gold obtains its romantic hue from copper," Branter explains. "While 14k and 18k will always have the required percentage of pure gold, the exact amount of copper can influence how 'rosy' the metal appears." If you're looking for a very specific hue of rose gold engagement ring, ask your jeweler what percentage of copper the alloy contains.

14k vs. 18k Gold: Which Is Best for Engagement Rings?

While personal style and symbolism or special meanings are often the top deciding factors in choosing an engagement ring, it's important to consider practicality, as well. Your engagement ring and wedding bands will likely be worn every day—and thus be exposed to hand washing, lotions, grocery carrying, handshakes and so much more. For that reason, Brantner actually suggests 14k gold over 18k. "Unless you are specifically desiring the color from 18k yellow gold, I recommend 14k for rings since it is slightly harder due to the added alloys," she says. (Note that platinum—which isn't gold at all—is the hardest metal and another stellar option for wedding rings, but it also comes with a higher price tag due to its durability and rarity.)

Whichever metal you choose, you need to take care of it. Remove your ring while lifting weights or doing manual labor; wear rubber gloves while cleaning to avoid contact with abrasive cleaning chemicals that can wear away at the metal. Clean your ring with mild soap, lukewarm water and a soft cloth or soft-bristled brush; and, when you're not wearing it, store it in a cloth bag or its own compartment in your jewelry box so it doesn't get scratched rubbing against other jewelry.