What Does a Raw Diamond Look Like? A Primer on the Unique Natural Stone

Before it's set in a ring, before it's polished and cleaned, before it's cut into a cushion or emerald or marquise, a diamond is unearthed from the ground in a considerably different form than what we typically see in engagement rings. What does a raw diamond look like? It's rough, unpolished, often cloudy—and yet beautiful in its own unique way. "Each stone is inherently asymmetrical and wholly unique," says Daniel Yakubov, brand manager at Diamond In The Rough Jewelry. "It's like a fingerprint: No two are ever the same. Just like people, each raw diamond has its own distinct personality and character, which adds to its natural charm. This one-of-a-kind quality makes raw diamonds ideal for those seeking a nontraditional and deeply personal engagement ring."

Often, it's their imperfections that make raw diamonds—also known as rough or uncut diamonds—so prized. "Typically speaking, a high quality rough diamond is more likely to be cut and polished than used in jewelry [as is]," explains Kwiat CEO Greg Kwiat. "Diamonds in the rough form that are of a lower quality, maybe actually have more interest and value because they have a heavy tinge of color or they're highly included, but in a way that makes them compelling and unique. Those pieces we've seen used in jewelry before and have done ourselves." (At Kwiat, they celebrate rough stones with the Mine to Shine program, where couples can follow their stone along its path from sourcing to the finished, polished product.)

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Opting for a raw diamond engagement ring is a wholly personal choice, and should be influenced by the look you're trying to achieve. Here, we asked Kwiat and Yakubov to break down the need-to-knows about raw diamonds, the pros and cons of using them in engagement rings and more.

In this article:

• What Is a Raw Diamond?
• What Does a Raw Diamond Look Like?
• Raw Diamond vs. Cut Diamond
• How Much Does a Raw Diamond Cost?
• Are Raw Diamonds Good for Engagement Rings?
• Where to Buy Raw Diamond Engagement Rings

What Is a Raw Diamond?

"A raw diamond—also known as a rough diamond—is a naturally occurring diamond that hasn't been cut, polished or faceted," Yakubov says. "It comes straight from the earth in its purest state, often showcasing its original crystal shape, surface texture and natural inclusions." You'll see the terms raw, rough and uncut diamond used interchangeably here and across the jewelry industry; they all refer to diamonds when they are in their most original natural state.

What Does a Raw Diamond Look Like?

"Diamonds in the earth look more like polished rocks than the actual magical diamonds that we know," Kwiat says. "They can form in many different ways and different shapes depending on the geological environment where they were created over many billions of years in the earth—but the [most] common shape we find many rough diamonds form in is the octahedron." An octahedron has eight faces and looks like a pyramid stacked on top of an upside-down pyramid, with points on both ends. The rough might appear cloudy or more opaque than cut diamonds due to the natural inclusions that are usually cut away.

Raw Diamond vs. Cut Diamond

There's no question of how to identify a raw diamond—unlike a few of the 4 Cs of diamonds, these differences are very clear to the naked eye. "Unlike traditional cut and polished diamonds, which are faceted to maximize brilliance, raw diamonds offer a more organic, unrefined beauty," Yakubov says. Here are a few key differences:

Polish: There are many stages to the process of turning a rough stone into a polished stone, and sheer shininess is one of the simplest ways to tell the difference in an uncut diamond ring. "Raw diamonds have a crystalline or textured surface and can range from clear to cloudy or opaque," Yakubov says.

Cut: A raw, uncut diamond, as the name suggests, has not been cut. So, instead of the many facets you see on a polished stone, which skilled artisans and jewelers cut, the rough diamond is in its most natural form, often, as outlined above, in an octahedral shape.

Size: A rough diamond is usually larger than a polished one, but not in the way you'd think. "When the diamond is in its rough form, think of it as: Inside of that diamond is the ultimate finished stone," Kwiat says. Yakubov adds: "While a raw diamond can appear larger than a cut diamond of the same carat weight because it retains its full natural form, their sizing isn't directly comparable."

How It's Graded: The unseen element here is how the stones are graded. "Unlike polished diamonds, rough diamonds are evaluated not only by measurable traits like carat weight and color, but also by their natural shape and the rarity of their structure," Yakubov says. "Because of their uniqueness, rough diamonds can't be assessed by traditional grading standards. Instead, each is appreciated for its inherent beauty and rare occurrence in nature."

How Much Does a Raw Diamond Cost?

Raw diamond price is not an easy thing to determine, and it's not directly comparable to the price of a polished diamond, either. "Rough and polished diamonds are both bought and sold based on their weight; we think of that in terms of per carat," Kwiat explains. "Since every stone is different—there are many different classifications of size, shape, color and clarity—even in the rough form, there are variations in pricing based on what the ultimate polished stone will become. On a per-carat basis, [the cost] is much lower than the per-carat cost of a finished stone, because you're going to cut away a lot of the weight. But rough diamonds always cost something relative to their quality."

The price of diamonds—raw or polished—is constantly in flux. "While the cutting and polishing process adds only a small fraction to a diamond's overall cost, it's the rarity and quality of the rough diamond that dictates its true worth," Yakubov says. "The rarity of rough diamonds is influenced by many factors, including supply and demand, market trends and the quality of the diamonds themselves. Some rough diamonds are more valuable than others, and their value can fluctuate over time." Ultimately, the price of a polished stone is determined by the value of its rough.

Are Raw Diamonds Good for Engagement Rings?

The answer is entirely dependent on what you're looking for. If sparkle and brilliance are your highest aims, then a raw diamond ring is probably not for you. If ultra-unique and one-of-a-kind is the goal, roughs are absolutely good for engagement rings. As with anything, of course, there are pros and cons.

The best part about a raw diamond engagement ring is its absolute uniqueness. "The fact that it's natural is one of its most special attributes—the idea that the earth produced that," Kwiat says. No two rough diamonds are the same; they are rare and unrepeatable. And because their shapes are not uniform, "every design is created with a specific diamond in mind," Yakubov says about placing roughs into engagement rings and other jewelry. "It [calls for] one-of-a-kind artistry."

When thinking about raw diamond engagement rings, consider different types. "Salt and pepper diamonds are a type of raw diamond that displays a distinctive blend of black and white inclusions," Yakubov says. "These inclusions create a moody, speckled or smoky appearance that evokes a galaxy-like aesthetic. They're popular among couples seeking a bold, unconventional stone with character and depth."

There are cons to a rough diamond ring, too. "Natural textures and inclusions may affect long-term durability," Yakubov says (though, rough or polished, diamond is the world's hardest mineral). "And, depending on the stone and setting, they can be more difficult to clean and maintain."

Where to Buy Raw Diamond Engagement Rings

Where to buy raw diamond engagement rings is not an easy question to answer, as this specialty style is not widely available. However, a few retailers offer stellar options.

Ditr Jewelry: When looking for something so unique or uncommon, it's best to go directly to a specialist. Ditr—which stands for Diamond in the Rough—is exactly that. "At Diamond In The Rough Jewelry, we use ethically sourced rough diamonds exclusively in our pieces as part of our design philosophy," Yakubov says. "Each design begins with a specific stone in mind—so the setting is created around the diamond, not the other way around."

Etsy: Etsy has long been a go-to for diamond alternatives like moissanite, but Etsy engagement rings featuring rough real diamonds are equally as prolific and unique. Look for simple styles like this rough solitaire in a claw-like setting or more unique designs like this five-stone ring in an organic, molten-like bezel.

Bario Neal: This woman-owned company prioritizes ethical sourcing of its diamonds and the use of reclaimed or Fairmined metals for an artisan production process that is as sustainable as it is beautiful. Their unique engagement rings include everything from cluster designs featuring salt and pepper diamonds to solitaires; at least one ready-to-shop ring features a raw diamond, but clients can work directly with the jeweler for a custom engagement ring.

Alexis Russell: Known for her use of unique gemstones and salt and pepper diamonds in engagement rings, Alexis Russell also offers pieces with raw diamonds. Her website boasts a pair of rough diamond earrings, but for the stone in engagement rings, opt for a totally bespoke design.

Your local jeweler: Though Kwiat doesn't list rough diamond jewelry on its site or promote it in store, "in our history we certainly have [created pieces with roughs], typically at special requests of the customer," Kwiat says. It's likely that your local or family jeweler can also source stones such as this on a custom basis. (You can find a jeweler near you in The Knot's Vendor Marketplace.) Just make sure you're working with a trusted source. "If a consumer chooses to buy a loose rough diamond," Yakubov says, "it's essential to work with a reputable jeweler who is experienced in working with rough stones and can guarantee ethical sourcing and quality suitable for fine jewelry."