The Ao Dai Dress and Other Vietnamese Wedding Attire Traditions Explained

Here’s everything you need to know about Vietnam's national garment, according to experts.

Illustration of Vietnamese couple wearing ao dai

Illustration by Camelia Pham for The Knot

Updated Jul 29, 2025

One of the best ways to honor your heritage on your wedding day is through cultural fashion. If you're a nearlywed of Vietnamese descent, or you're planning a multicultural celebration, that might mean wearing an ao dai dress. The Vietnamese wedding tradition of wearing a wedding ao dai dates back to the 18th century. Today, the tradition is alive and well as many couples both in Vietnam and around the world continue to wear them on their wedding day.

Like many other customs, Vietnamese wedding dresses have evolved a lot over the years. Now, there are more ways than ever before to sport a custom ao dai that feels entirely you. "Whether it's for a tea ceremony, a fusion wedding, or a modern celebration, the ao dai has become more than just a cultural garment–It's a canvas for personal storytelling," says Phuong Minh Nguyen, Vietnamese bridal gown designer and founder of Dream Dresses by P.M.N. "Each ao dai should reflect the wearer's heritage, values and vision while blending handcrafted details with a modern silhouette."

Below, we're breaking down everything you need to know about Vietnamese bridal dresses. Once you're ready to shop, you can head toThe Knot Vendor Marketplace and filter your search by Asian-owned businesses to find Vietnamese wedding attire experts near you.

In this article:

What Is an Ao Dai Dress?
Vietnamese Ao Dai History
Ao Dai Colors
Different Types of Ao Dai
Traditional vs. Modern Ao Dai
Who Wears an Ao Dai Dress to a Vietnamese Wedding?

What Is an Ao Dai Dress?

According to Minh Nguyen, "an ao dai is a traditional Vietnamese garment, typically consisting of a long, fitted tunic worn over pants. It's known for its elegant silhouette that flatters the body while remaining modest and graceful." The ao dai is considered the national clothing garment of Vietnam and is often worn for special occasions such as weddings. While they are most commonly worn by women, there are also ao dai for men (which we'll discuss later on in this article.)

Vietnamese Ao Dai History

Ao dai dresses have a rich history that dates back to the 18th century during the Nguyen Dynasty in Vietnam. According to Minh Nguyen, "the ao dai developed from earlier garments like the Áo Tứ Thân (four-panel, also spelled ao tu than) and Áo Ngũ Thân (five-panel court robe, also spelled ao ngu than), which inspired modern silhouettes such as the form-fitting Lemur ao dai of the 1930s and the Southern raglan-sleeve version still popular today." ao dai dresses have evolved through dynasties and political changes while remaining a cultural staple for special occasions, especially weddings and national events. "For centuries, the ao dai has stood as a symbol of Vietnamese identity, femininity and grace," Minh Nguyen explains.

Vietnamese bride wearing red and gold ao dai

Ao Dai Colors

Like in other Asian wedding customs, Vietnamese tradition regards the color red as a symbol of good luck and prosperity, so it is common to see brides wear a red ao dai on their wedding day. However, while red is certainly the most traditional choice, it's not uncommon for brides to opt for ao dai in different shades, especially as many couples search for new ways to modernize their celebration. White ao dai are also popular amongst nearlyweds, especially here in the United States. Other ao dai colors include blue, green, yellow and even pink.

Different Types of Ao Dai

"Ao dai comes in many forms, which vary in style depending on the type of event they are designed for. "For weddings, there are specialized bridal ao dai crafted in luxurious fabrics like silk, lace, or brocade and often adorned with intricate embroidery of phoenixes, florals, or symbolic motifs," says Minh Nguyen. "Grooms typically wear matching ao dai jackets for a coordinated look."

Contemporary ao dai, which can be worn to occasions outside of weddings, vary in silhouette and length. There are shorter ao dai which are designed to be worn over a skirt or pair of pants. These less-formal options are often made from lighter fabrics such as linen or chiffon.

Traditional vs. Modern Ao Dai

"Traditional ao dai are typically made from silk or brocade and feature a high neckline, raglan long sleeves, and an above-the-ankle-length silhouette with minimal embellishment," Minh Nguyen explains. "The design is modest and elegant, following classic tailoring that has remained largely unchanged for generations." Modern ao dai, on the other hand, embraces bold colors, personalized embroidery and even sheer elements such as illusion panels. "From off-shoulder and halter designs to detachable overskirts and capes, today's ao dai reimagine tradition in a way that allows brides and wearers to express their individuality while honoring cultural roots," says Minh Nguyen.

Vietnamese bride wearing white ao dai walking down the aisle with parents

Who Wears an Ao Dai Dress to a Vietnamese Wedding?

According to Minh Nguyen, "ao dai can be worn by the bride, groom, bridal party and wedding guests." Of course, each garment will look a little different depending on the role of the person wearing it. Read on for more information about the type of ao dai each member of the wedding should wear.

Bride

"Brides often wear a more elaborate or embroidered ao dai for tea ceremonies or traditional wedding celebrations," says Minh Nguyen. Red and white are the most common ao dai colors worn by brides, though no shade is technically off-limits. It is also common to see brides pair their ao dai with a matching hat called a khan dong or ao dai hat. Brides who want to pay homage to their culture without wearing ao dai might opt for an ao dai inspired dress, which fuses elements of the traditional garment with their own personal style.

Groom

Grooms can also wear ao dai on their wedding day. Just like the brides, their Ao Dao will often be more intricate and detailed than that of a groomsman or guest. "Grooms can also wear a matching ao dai jacket sometimes called an Ao Gam which may include similar embroidery or motifs to complement the bride," Minh Nguyen explains.

Bridesmaids and Groomsmen

As a bridesmaid or groomsmen in a Vietnamese wedding, you may be asked to wear ao dai for a position, if not all, of the event. In this instance, the couple will decide on the ao dai colors and ao dai fabric for their wedding party. Typically, they will choose garments that complement their own attire to create a cohesive look amongst the group.

Guests

Wedding guests should avoid wearing ao dai in red or white as those shades are traditionally worn by the bride. Black is also not the most ideal color choice, as it symbolizes mourning in Vietnamese culture. Instead, guests should opt for a bright, celebratory shade like green, yellow or blue.