A Guide to Old Mine Diamonds, Which Are About to Become, Like, Really Popular

In case you haven't heard, Taylor Swift and Travis Kelce are engaged. Just kidding! Of course you heard. It was the proposal seen 'round the world, after all. One day after the most famous couple on the planet hard-launched their engagement on Instagram (with an in-feed grid post, that is), publicist extraordinaire Tree Paine confirmed that Taylor Swift's engagement ring is an Old Mine brilliant cut diamond on a gold band. But what the heck is an Old Mine diamond? We're so happy you asked.

As is common with celebrity engagement rings, the proposal pieces worn by A-listers often inspire new waves of jewelry trends. We've seen this time and time again over the years, from Blake Lively's oval-shaped diamond to Zendaya's modern east-west setting. Now that Swift's ring has effectively taken over the internet, it has also put Old Mine diamonds on the map. As your go-to expert on all things Tayvis *and* gemstones, we break down everything to know about this vintage diamond style that's about to have a major resurgence.

At a glance:

• Taylor Swift's engagement ring is an Old Mine diamond on a thick gold band.
• Old Mine diamonds date back to the 18th century and were once cut by hand, giving them their signature chunky and asymmetrical appearance.
• While the Old Mine diamond cut can be replicated with modern diamond cutting technology, original Old Mine stones are incredibly rare and one-of-a-kind.

In this article:

• What Is an Old Mine Cut Engagement Ring?
• Diamond Shapes for Old Mine Cut Engagement Rings
• Bands for Old Mine Cut Engagement Rings
• Where to Shop for Old Mine Cut Engagement Rings

What Is an Old Mine Cut Engagement Ring?

Photo: The Clear Cut

An Old Mine engagement ring describes a specific type of cut—otherwise known as the internal faceting—of a diamond. When you think of an engagement ring, you probably envision a classic, brilliant diamond: it's the super-sparkly gemstone that's synonymous with proposals. Old Mine diamonds have a distinctly different appearance thanks to their 58 internal facets, which may appear to be chunkier or even asymmetrical when compared to a brilliant diamond. "Old Mine cuts date back to the 1700s and remained popular through the late 1800s," says The Clear Cut founder Olivia Landau. "Every single one was cut by hand, which is part of what makes them so special."

Today, diamonds are cut by machines with precise laser technology. But back in the early days of jewelry polishing, experts handcrafted the gemstones by candlelight, which is why each authentic Old Mine diamond is truly one-of-a-kind. "That's part of their magic," says Marrow Fine founder Jillian Sassone. "Each stone is perfectly imperfect with a charm you just don't find in modern cuts."

While it's possible to make an Old Mine diamond with modern technology, Sassone says it's not exactly the same as a true original. "Authentic Old Mine diamonds were hand-cut to maximize their sparkle in candlelight, which gives them that soft, romantic glow." While sourcing an Old Mine diamond engagement ring may feel more like a scavenger hunt than the search for, say, a brilliant oval diamond, that's part of what makes their allure so enticing for shoppers looking for a unique (and authentically vintage) engagement ring. "You can absolutely cut a modern diamond into an Old Mine–style with today's technology, but it will never have quite the same character as an original," Landau says. "True Old Mine diamonds are antique stones, hand-cut more than 100 years ago, so they carry a one-of-a-kind charm and history that simply can't be recreated."

During your search for Old Mine diamonds, you may also come across Old European cuts, another antique diamond style. Despite their internal similarities, Old Europeans are rounder and tend to have more precise faceting patterns. Although they aren't exactly the same, their similar vintage appearance may soon become one of the most popular engagement ring trends thanks to Swift's impact. "We're already seeing many clients gravitate towards antique diamonds," says Sassone. "An Old Mine feels different from the standard round or oval. Chunkier facets, a squarer outline and dreamy depth makes them feel special. Pair that with the history (and the fact that no two are ever alike), and you've got a stone that feels truly one-of-a-kind—just like an engagement ring should."

Diamond Shapes for Old Mine Cut Engagement Rings

Photo: Taylor Custom Rings

It's important to note that a diamond's shape and cut are two different characteristics. While the cut references its internal faceting, the shape refers to the literal external shape of the diamond. According to Ashley Taylor, co-founder and head designer of Taylor Custom Rings, Old Mine diamonds typically resemble cushions or Asschers. "The shape of an Old Mine cut is a rectangle with rounded corners, like a cushion, and can be square or elongated," she says, noting that Swift's particular center stone is elongated.

One detail that sets Old Mine diamonds apart from other elongated stones is that they tend to carry their carat weight differently. "While more common shapes like ovals and rounds carry more of their carat weight on top, making them look bigger from the top down, Old Mine brilliant cuts are deeper, with more carat weight underneath the table of the diamond," Taylor explains.

Bands for Old Mine Cut Engagement Rings

In our (rather unbiased) opinion, one of the most exciting parts of planning your nuptials is selecting your wedding bands. When it comes to finding the perfect accompaniment for an Old Mine engagement ring, just about anything goes. You may want a thick eternity band made of smaller, similar diamonds like cushions or Asschers, or you can keep it simple with a thin metal stacker. If your Old Mine engagement ring has an exaggerated elongated shape, like Taylor Swift's, you might prefer the look of wearing it alone on one hand and donning your wedding band on the other so as to not take away from the appearance. Considering there are so many ways to style Old Mine engagement rings, this underscores the importance of working with a trusted jeweler. An expert gemologist or designer can help guide your search by suggesting wedding bands that match your engagement ring and, more importantly, your budget.

Where to Shop for Old Mine Cut Engagement Rings

Photo: Marrow Fine

Marrow Fine

Part of what makes Taylor Swift's engagement ring so unique is its thick, metal-forward appearance. You'll find plenty of similar styles at Marrow Fine. Not only does the brand specialize in reworking heirloom gemstones, they also offer trend-forward ring settings, mined and lab-grown center stones, and bespoke one-of-a-kind designs.

The Clear Cut

Founded by fourth-generation gemologist Olivia Landau, The Clear Cut offers a highly personalized diamond experience from their New York City showroom. If you can't shop in person, they also offer plenty of ready-to-ship engagement rings online, including a selection of antique Old Mines.

Etsy

Etsy is an excellent place to find an antique or nontraditional engagement ring, including Old Mines. When shopping online, always research the seller thoroughly. Check their sales volume and read through their reviews for insights into their quality and customer service. When in doubt, don't hesitate to ask the jeweler for more information. A reputable seller will be happy to provide details about a stone's certification, such as from GIA or IGI, and an appraisal document for your purchase. This appraisal is crucial for insurance purposes. Once the ring arrives, get it professionally inspected and appraised by a local jeweler. This step confirms the authenticity and quality of the materials and ensures the craftsmanship is sound.

Taylor Custom Rings

Taylor Custom Rings offers a variety of antique diamonds beyond Old Mines, including Old Europeans and rose cuts. With the option to invest in a mined or lab-grown center stone, the brand's selection of vintage engagement rings ensures that your proposal piece will stand the test of time as a family heirloom for generations to come.

Grown Brilliance

Unlike traditional vintage rings with natural diamonds, Grown Brilliance offers a modern, sustainable alternative with lab-grown stones cut in the antique "Old Mine" style. This is an ideal place to shop for Old Mine engagement rings if you're working with a tight budget, as lab-grown stones typically come with a lower price tag when compared to mined diamonds or authentic vintage gems.

Additional reporting by Emily Rumsey.